HAMCUS is a Hong Kong based label that develop futuristic gear of all forms. Recently, due to the announcement of a collaboration with Adidas Originals, the brand has been gaining more traction on top of the steady following that has grown since the mid 2010s.

The concept called Cosmos Character Style System was devised by the label's founder Tuff Leung, who stated that the reason for this was because “if it was just another clothing line limited to a certain style, it would surely lose its creativity” due to rapid consumption and the constant seasonal renewal.

This style system utilises materials, treatments and shapes that represent and are worn by the different societies of the fictional DUST universe, commencing with the SS18 collection titled “SOCIETY0319,” with each proceeding season expanding on the lore of this universe. Each society's garments are crafted with careful consideration to their environment and worldview, giving us idiosyncratic design choices that speak to the uniqueness of the label as a whole. A few of the inspirations for this fictional universe can be found on Tuff Leung's Pinterest

Season 1: Those Left Behind

The planet V-19 has its resources depleted, which plunges the complex social group known as SOCIETY319 into an age of post-apocalyptic order and chaos. HAMCUS explores the different factions present within this social group, and the changes that are imposed on them in this primordial age.

In season 1, the story takes place on the post-apocalyptic V-19 when we are introduced to 2 factions. The Prime Military Units (PMU) organisation is a militia with a penchant for military and resource domination of what remains of the planet, which requires resilient materials with a focus on tactical and versatile forms. The pragmatism of their garments are put in focus with the usage of accents like pockets, zippers, buckles and drawstrings, along with multi-form, protective silhouettes that shield them from the harsh conditions.

The other faction are known as The Children of ADAM, a group of post-humans who seek to find answers about V-19 in accordance with beliefs rooted in the “illuminator” known only as A.D.A.M. Throughout the 1st season, they are chased by the PMU across different terrain, and in order to remain vigilant against their enemies, they learn to adapt to the surrounding environments.

As they venture through the wilderness of the “metropical-primadise,” the garments incorporate utilitarian design aspects, jagged and ragged fabric with classic silhouettes to communicate the idea that what we once knew as civilisation had regressed into an unfamiliar landscape, of which the remaining inhabitants must traverse endure.

Later, as they enter the “Bipolar Dune” and go past the “Gates of Eden,” the garments of the children of ADAM shift to accommodate to their surroundings, starting with the sandy hues of the desert, combined with enveloping silhouettes that work to prevent sand from invading the wearer. Soon after, the clothes shift to a more covert theme, incorporating dark green palettes and heavy usage of face coverings to accentuate the idea of guerrilla warfare in the finale of Season 1 of the HAMCUS storyline.

Season 2: Post-Exile

Before the fall of V-19, there was a conglomerate that was largely responsible for the downfall of the planet, Primus Corporation. For SS21, HAMCUS expands the story of SOCIETY319 with the interstellar ship Gaea, where Primus Corporation and its subordinates evacuated V-19 reside. Striking a contrast to the people left behind in season 1, the garments presented in this instalment brings a lot of sophistication to utilitarianism. Of course, as society wills it, several castes coexist aboard Gaea.

For the upper echelon of Primus Corporation, the garments are almost uniform-like in consistency, covered in a metallic colour palette that lends itself well to a variety of materials. For the lower rung of society aboard Gaea, the pieces are noticeably a lot oversized and the texture is a lot dustier, with many cues from classic American workwear and outdoor garments re-adapted to this sci-fi narrative.

This latest season by HAMCUS is where the Adidas Originals collaboration expands upon, adding a nuanced portrayal of the different forces that reside within Gaea. Within the current fashion zeitgeist, Tuff Leung's work stands a cut above the rest of the trend-driven and lacklustre work presented by the majority of namesake labels.